Filigree

Filigree is a term often associated with fine, decorative metal items. Although probably best known in the context of gold jewelry you can also find filigree work in many other metals such as silver, copper and gunmetal.

What Is Filigree?

Filigree is a decorative style of metalwork created using very fine threads of metal, often gold. These threads are twisted, arranged and fixed together so as to form an aesthetically pleasing pattern. Items which have been ornamented in this way are described as having been filigreed. Such pieces were originally known as filigrene, however that term is rarely used today.

Filigree work can vary from relatively simple and minimalist geometric forms through to extremely intricate and ornate tracery patterns such as feathers and spider webs. The style is sometimes used with the deliberate intent of evoking the idea of delicate lace fabric.

Although some people still build up filiogree work from scratch it's becoming increasingly common for jewelry makers to assemble much of it using filigree findings bought from specialist suppliers. This also provides an easier option for the hobbbyist.

Filigree vs Ajoure

Note that filigree specifically involves the use of fine threads of metal. It shouldn't be confused with ajoure, a superficially similar style of metalwork which involves leaving many open areas in a metal plane. Both result in designs with a lot of open space but they aren't the same, although the dividing line between the two can sometimes be difficult to determine for a layman. The two styles are often used together with an ajoure base being decorated with detailed filigree work to add a layer of finer detail.

History

The history of filigree goes back over 2000 years. The difficult and time consuming nature of manual filigree work made it especially rare and valuable. Unfortunately because it's so delicate little antique filigree survives intact. Genuine vintage filigree is much sought after, especially if it has an interesting provenance.

Filigree work became less difficult with modern improvements in technology and metalwork and was especially popular in Europe during the late 19th century and early 20th centuries. This boom culminated in the Art Deco period of the '30s and '40s during which time the delicate strands were mainly used to create abstract geometric designs.

Today modern technology has made filigree jewelry much more affordable with rings, earrings, necklaces and pendants etc widely available to buy. Mass produced filigree is likely to be rather less delicate than handmade designer pieces and is often simply stamped out rather than built up. Arguably much of this shouldn't really be called filigree at all but would be more accurately labelled as ajoure.